Dakota Access Pipeline
The shells hold cultural importance and are sought after by artists and crafters — but finding them can be difficult
(Photo credit: Babita Patel)
Known for their smooth structure and bright appearance, dentalium shells are surging in popularity across North America. What was once a traditional trade item among the Northwest and Midwest tribes has now become a hot commodity for jewelry and regalia.
Also referred to as “tooth” or “tusk” shells, dentalium has been commonly used in Indigenous artwork, decoration and spiritual ceremonies. For centuries, these small marine shells have been sold across trading posts and markets.
In the 1700s, Indigenous men would trade resources, such as fur and animal hide, for dentalium. The women of the tribes would then use the shells to embellish clothing, hair ties and gifts as an indication of prosperity and luck.
Today, dentalium continues to hold cultural importance to many tribes as it expands to new marketplaces, platforms and customers worldwide — but it isn’t the easiest thing to track down.
If you’re one of the many wondering where to look, don’t stress. Our team at Buffalo’s Fire has your back.
Modern-day trading posts and Indigenous stores throughout the United States buy and sell Native crafting supplies, from pony beads to feathers and abalone disks. These shops offer a wide selection of products aimed at meeting Indigenous crafter needs.
Dentalium, on the other hand, isn’t always stocked in every store. The shells originally come from small marine organisms that reside along the ocean floor. Harvesters gather, clean and sell them to supply vendors.
Greg Bellanger, owner of Northland Visions in Minneapolis, Minnesota, says the dentalium market faced challenges at the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic. “They got hard to get during COVID because a lot of the people that did it on a regular basis lost the ability to ship,” he said. “It had nothing to do with overharvesting, because they’re never harvesting live ones.”
Since availability depends on shell collectors and ocean tides, supply can be inconsistent.
When looking to buy dentalium, calling ahead or browsing online can save time and travel expenses.
Besides Northland Visions, a few places to visit that carry dentalium are Prairie Edge Trading Post in Rapid City, South Dakota, 406 Native Roots in Billings, Montana, and Iron Road Creations in Bismarck, North Dakota.
Online shopping options for each of these stores can be found on their websites.
As the warmest months of the year arrive, communities band together for what is commonly called the “powwow trail” — a season of Native American celebrations consisting of dance, food and connection. Family-run food trucks and other vendors surround the celebration grounds, selling everything from Pendleton blankets and children’s toys to handcrafted jewelry, buckskin cuts and dentalium.
A few of the largest stops on the trail include the Gathering of Nations Powwow in New Mexico, the Denver March Powwow in Colorado and the United Tribes Technical College International Powwow in North Dakota.
When the powwow trail slows down, dentalium can still be found for sale within communities. Many local artists and suppliers remain operational year-round. Reaching out to family and friends may reveal new sources of dentalium sold in person or through online shops.
Building strong relationships with community sellers can lead to long-term partnerships that foster and benefit native economies.
For those looking for a convenient alternative to local sources, online marketplaces offer a wide range of dentalium options.
E-commerce websites such as eBay, Etsy and Amazon host listings from a variety of online sellers. Product size, quantity and quality vary. Sea Shells from India sells dentalium in various colors and textures and offers international shipping.
While these websites are used by many, some independent sellers have opted to use social media and personal websites to sell products.
Hailey Gates, an 18-year-old Native artist from the Standing Rock Reservation, uses quillwork and dentalium to create intricate jewelry, which she sells through Facebook Marketplace.
Her artistic journey began in January. “It has been a pretty easy experience so far,” Gates said, though she is still building her knowledge and supply inventory.
For dentalium, Gates has relied on small online storefronts and Instagram pages. She recommends the personal website Chrissy’s Creations and the Instagram page @kareemshellcrafts, saying both are “excellent for dentalium with good deals on their items.”
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